A local gem and an oasis within the bustling streets of Lan Kwai Fong. This is a welcome antidote to the steel and glass high-rises that house so many of the destination diners, shipping you off in an instance to the streets of Bologna or Tuscany. There’s a nicely understated air about the place and staff have whiff of genial sophistication that never becomes too pompous, neither does it collapse under pressure when things get busy. Highlights of a beautifully executed menu include steak – both American USDA and Australian grain-fed wagyu – alongside osso bucco, sublime spaghetti Pomodoro, meatballs and grilled bone marrow. Wines, not cheap, are a broad church selection and offer something for all budgets.