Jiangsu cuisine finds its apotheosis here at this new Sheung Wan restaurant, where the traditional techniques of braising, double-boiling, stir-frying and steaming are taken to new levels, and freshwater fish are celebrated with gusto. Floor to ceiling windows and intricate interior design details, together with stiff white napery, provide a reassuringly formal setting for this style of gastronomy. The friendly staff lighten the ambience but it’s the food that is clearly the focus. Why not get started with the no-fuss flavours of scallion oil noodles or the comforting, clean delivery of chicken and wonton soup before letting your taste buds rip on whitebait and eel in fresh batter, glazed in aged vinegars and brown sugar for a delightful sweet-sour kick. Steamed cod has a melt-in-the-mouth sweetness but for many it’s the unctuous, crunchy-coated eight treasure duck that takes centre stage.