Well-established canteen packed to the gills with hungry regulars who have made this their canteen of choice for what seems like decades. Kick off with first-rate fried noodles with scallops or double boiled fish soup made warm with angelica root and Szechuan rhizome. Other signatures included barbecued Peking duck or an excellent baked chicken with sea salt cooked in a casserole.
No prizes for the decor unless you like a heavy, patterned, red carpet which provides a backcloth for tables clad with stiff white napery and sit-up-straight chairs. Service generally exemplary.