Don’t always judge a book by its cover. Gourmands may bypass this delightful but homey-style Italian in the heart of Wanchai, thinking a flashier place might deliver more. It’s not true, as born out by the “Hong Kong institution” status bestowed on Grappa by its legion of fans. It’s a casual and relaxed setting, for sure, but the food is tip-top and consistently food – not cheap but not ridiculously expensive either. Carpaccio, taramasalata and tuna tartar are all first-class or, if looking for something hot, there’s calamari fritti or gamberi al burro e limone.
A good line-up of pasta dishes share equal billing with risotto, gnocchi or pizza. For mains don’t miss wonderful osso buco or a 12oz steak served traditionally with roasted herb potatoes and green beans. Natural cheeses from Italy and the US compete with home-made desserts and don’t miss the fresh bread baked daily. Top tip: Grappa’s Cellar delivers live entertainment – from jazz and blues to soul and rock.