This wine-focused foodie establishment is an object lesson in France’s foodie culture, full of soul and some of the world’s most loved dishes: pan-fried orange duck with roasted pumpkin purée, saucisson Lyonnais with baby carrots and grilled potatoes, or dry-aged steak with sauce gribiche. Bookend this with home-made paté en croute or fresh endives salad and a wickedly decadent dark chocolate tart made with salted butter caramel and Chantilly cream. For many this will, however, be a mere bagatelle, designed as a canvas for some lovely wine. Think a Saint Joseph Marsanne-Roussanne blend or an earthy Grenache and Cinsault blend from Domaine Henri Bonneau – both served by the glass – or something much more substantial from a stellar list that is a roster of the good and the great names and stretches to thousands of bottles. Simple understated decor with shabby chic finishes and earthy tones smiles ironically at the luxury of it all.