Traditionalists go a bundle on this timewarp but superbly run bar-restaurant with a supremely clubbish and genial ambience. It's a throw-back to Simpson's in the Strand for homesick expat Brits, but its warm wood panelling, green leather banquettes and deeply comfortable armchairs deliver for a far wider audience too. Foodwise, it's certainly a relaxed alternative to more stuffy dining rooms, with fish and chips and shepherd's pie rubbing shoulders with lamb samosas and chicken tikka served with basmati rice. Round it all off with chocolate mud pie, trifle or cheese. Draft beer served in silver tankards, copious whiskies and veteran staff complete the this picture of contentment.