Bouillon ticks all the boxes on account of its food, ambience and service. Gregory Alexandre is a master of his craft front of house, cajoling diners with warm welcomes and wielding both the menu and the wine list with a conductor’s skill, leaving chef Johan Ducroquet in charge of delivering flavour-packed bistro classics. Check out marinated herring with a horseradish cream or foie gras terrine, followed by red mullet with leaks, duck led confit with potatoes or slow-cooked pork cheek with a butternut purée and grilled bacon. The wine list stays largely true to France and has good references in all the major regions. Why not a (youngish) Nuits-Saint-Georges from Joseph Drouhin?