Grand, old school and just a touch reverential, you could be dining in Versailles with Liberace as artisitic director. The fabulously OTT dining room with its art, murals, black marble columns and dripping crystal chandeliers are matched by an army of waiters who are poster boys of decorum but if all this fin de siècle opulence is all a bit overwhelming, the mood is rescued by the jaw-dropping, glass-and-steel view across the harbour.
For dinner, three courses will set you back $1,088 or five for $1,588. Start perhaps with a dish of king crab, served with savoury panna cotta and caviar or a pumpkin tarte tatin with comte and generous amounts of truffle. Beef with brandt, truffle and bone marrow or sea bass with Japanese clams and potatoes will follow, finishing with a pud that is as decorative as it is tasty. Lunch is a more ecumenical affair both in price and complexity: trout with couscous, red bell pepper and saffron or duck and foie gras paté en croute, followed by lobster pasta or beef cheek with leeks and mushrooms
The classic wine list here is overseen by Yohann Jousselin MS, boasting over 12,000 bottles including some of the great vintages from the most famous chateaux. No wonder Wine Spectator goes mad for it.
Private dining is an equally sumptuous affair for top-notch occasions. But remember the dress code requires a jacket in the evening.